curtis



(No Model.) 2 'Sheets-Sheet 1, 21.70, @UBT-Is.

MBTHGD 0F MAKING GOLLARS AND GUFPS.

No.1356g624. Patented Jan. 25,1887.,

N PETERS Pmnrmrwgnphen wmf-.gwn u. C.

Unirse Srnfrns @einem @reine HENRY C. CURTIS, OF TROY, NEWT YORK.

METHOD F MAKING COLLARS AND GUFFS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patentlilo. 356.624, dated January 25, 1887.

Application filed October 4, 1886.

To ctZ whom t may Concern:

Be it known that I, HENRY C. CURTIS, a resident of the eity of Troy, in the county of Rensselaer and State of New York, have invented certain new anduseful Improvements in Collars and Cuffs; and I do hereby declare that the following is a fnll, clear, and exact description of the inventiointhat will enable others shilledin the art to which it appertains to make and use the saine, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, and to the letters of reference marked thereon, which forni a part of this specification.

Similar letters refer to similar parts in the several rigores therein.

My invention relates lio improvements in the method of making collars and cuffs; and it consists ol the novel construction and combina.- tion of parts, hereinafter descrihefhaud pointed out in the claim.

Fignre l of the drawings is a plan View of the plies ci' an `aplaarel collar or cuff secured together ivi-ong side out by a ron-seam and an over-edge seam nlongjy` one edge. Fig. 2 is a similar View showing the plies secured hy the runseam only. Fig. 3 is a plan View of nnished coller or cuil'. Fig. e is an enlarged erossseotional i'iew'iaken 'as the broken line .fr y in Fig. l. Fig. 5 is a similar View taken et broken line .fr y; in Fig. 3. Fig. 6 is a similar view showing the edges of the plies frayed ont and nnconiined by the over-edge zigzag stitching la. Fig. T is e cross-sectional View taken at the broken line a; y in Fig. 2. Figs. S and 9 are respectively enlarged views of the reverse and obverse sides of a portion of the overhonnd edges shown in Fig. l. Fig. 10 is an enlarged edge view ol' a portion of the orerhound edges.

Apparel collars and curls are generally formed hy stitching ltogether tiro or more plies of fabric. The plies are :ii'stlaid one upon another, Wrong side out, so that their edges to he stitched together are in alignment. After the edges are stitched together the plies are turned right side ont, the remaining edges turned in and stitched together, as shown in the drawings, in which A represents the face ply of a eollar5l3, the hack ply, and C the inter ply or lininn.

The yplies are laid together Wrong side ont, es shown iu Figs. 1 and 4, and stitched to- Serinl No. 215.206. (No modela gether hy o run-seam, a. Then, as heretofore constructed, the plies are turned right side out, to the position shown in Figs. 5 and 6,' the lower ed ges turned in and secu red by the seam D', the npper part or iop of the collar being se cured by a seam, D. lVhen collars are so constructed, the raw edges are nnraveled and frayed ont during the operation of laundering and threads hang down from the edges, as shown at g in Fig. C. These threads frequently mat together, forming bunches, which leave their impress upon the 'face of the collar when the saine is smoothed and polished in laundering. They also serve to collect an excess or' hlning or coloring-matter in laundering, and display blue linespvhich show on the polished surface. The threads can in all cases he detected by holding,` the collar up between the observer and a strong light. As this seein is at the top of a collar, and at the exposed Vedges of both collars and cuffs, the otherwise neat and tidy appearance of the nished artiole is marred and the articles rendered less salahle. I .have ascertained that this defect can he Wholly remedied byan overedge zigzag seam, Z1, which binds the edges together and efi'eotually prevents them from fraying out or raveline. The over-edge seam is preferably formed by the two threads e and d, the former thread being looped around the latter and passing through the fabric and over its edges to forni the zigzag binding-loops i. This style of stitching een he easily producedhy a. twothreaded sewing-iiiachine, and varied in forni, as desired, by varying the rela-tive degrees of tension upon the two threads, and hy altera.- tions in the movements ofthe feed-plate. Any of the wellhnown forms of huttoirhole stitches may be employed.

The stitching b is represented hy dotted lines in Figs. i and 5. l

The over-edge searo is taken directly eifter the insertion of the ron-seein a, while the plies are Wrong side out. The plies are then turned right side ont and the remaining edges turned in an d secured hy seam D', as before described, or secured in any of the Well-known methods adopted in making collars or eus.

The cuffs are mede alittle Wider and shorter than the collars, otherwise in substantially the l ein aware that it is not new to use an erz-l tra row of stitching to prevent seam-inclused ter looped around the longitudinal thread, takenlover the edge of the plies, passed therethrough, and then carried over the ply/edges to form loops7 and,;`nally, turning the plies right side out and finishing with the usual or t any suitable edge seam, as set forth.

In testimonywhereof I have hereunto set my hand this 30th day of September, 1886.

HENRY o. CURTIS.,`

Witnesses:

GEO. A; Mosnnn, t W. H. HoLLrsTER, J r. 

